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LONDON FASHION WEEK - CLOSING
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Wednesday 10 March 2010
Among the collections presented at this February edition, the London Fashion Week, saw on its catwalk creations that lead to immediate future and remember the bond between man and nature to which he belongs.

The London Fashion Week this year turned off 26 candles, but years seem not affecting it; you could argue on the contrary about the youth, but it has nevertheless achieved a certain maturity.

Its only fault, according to some, is perhaps the fact that it opened its doors seven days before the Milan fashion week. Because those most followed and revered goddesses of fashion publications, for whom it is already difficult to come down from their gilded Olympus, you can not imagine them in possession of the precious gift of ubiquity, to let them be present in all those numerous fashion events!

To these beloved as well as criticized contemporary Venuses, there are universal icons of the Sixties, that are committed against the bad habit which some designers refuse to drop, namely that of using animal pelts.

Twiggy, born Lesley Hornby, has strongly criticized the use of animal skins in the collections, openly expressing her disagreement, especially for those skins coming from animals often kept in "terrible and inhuman" conditions. Always Twiggy stated: "I am very sad that some designers continue to use real fur when there are synthetic alternatives so effective and easily available."

Even if the applause at the end of parade, thanking for the show, and exalting the wonder of animal-fur with its archaic-look, which in all their charm entangled perfect women in a carousel of colors, to which it is almost impossible to resist.

And 'maybe it is because of the precognition of a new ice age, or perhaps because of the pressing campaigns on climate change, that designers, artists with great creativity, highly sensitive to changes, anticipate in their collections the arrival of great cold. The suggestion that they give the general public is to rely on the fur.

Hannah Marshall [external link], young emerging talent on the British and on the international fashion scene, after her debut in 2007, this year presented a collection filled with appeals to the Eighties in the forms, and even the fashion, which is, so to speak "spacy", that one that has characterized the sixties and contributed to the fame of the pioneers of the style as Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne.

Hannah Marshall's creations are based on black and darker shades of blue and metallic cobalt, as blue are also the cold lips of the models. Geometric shapes that arise from the "Little black dress" that Chanel made famous, are also due to the numerous references to the body art and the bodily changes, with which she establishes her own powerful language.

The contrast of materials, leather and wool, in varieties of black, blue and metal, which develops into forms that can hardly be contained within the body, and thus position themselves around it in the form of rings, remembering that Saturn symbolizes the effort of life, deprivation, coldness and loneliness of the mind, but also perseverance and determination, as well as reason without sentimentality.

Wild temperaments and hopes for the arrival of a new ice age in the creations made by Unique, Topshop's collection developed and designed by its team of designers, this year at its eighteenth season, which sees models transformed into woodland creatures and magical forest dwellers.

Hats shaped like deer, foxes, wolves, bears and squirrels, for suits in wool and sheepskin, where the imagination allows new dialogue between man and nature. Provocation sortie its effect: a mix of fake hunting trophies and the need to wear symbols not just clothing.

Even Fashion East, a not - profit organization created in 2000 with the aim of giving voice and space to young designers, that in each season are selected by prominent figures of the fashion system.

These young designers are then supported with grants and funding for the organization of parades, assisted in the work of public relations.

Designers attending this year for Fashion East [external link] were: Heikki Salonen, Michael Van der Ham and Nasir Mazhar.

Among the collections presented by them, Nasir Mazhar aimed to reach a more extreme and provocative look by dressing models with hats shaped like headphones, packaged in organza and black rubber. Half-naked bodies with patches of silver paint on his chest, synthetic hair falling in long cascades shocking pink and blue.

Hekki Salonen faithful to his look so urban and industrial, exhibits minimal clothing often supported by only one detail, one belt and black leather jackets, while Michael van der Ham's clothes become macroscopic floral patchwork colors, purple, and black inlays Lurex giving his creations evocative collage.

If the fashion is, after all, also communicating a message, the collection by Vivienne Westwood for her Red Label line has fulfilled its aim.

The sophisticated English lady showed decadent creations in a style linked to a punk aesthetic - not to betray her origins - and with delicious costumes recalling Tim Burton's poetical characters.

And in exhibiting the black t-shirt worn over everything from some models, and Vivienne Westwood [external link] in person, at the end of the show, where the message was explicit: the words that resemble important steps for mankind where the title is "Statistics of Life" beginning with "1,200,000 years ago Homo Erectus manufacture the first hand tools" and ending on the edge of the low t-shirt with "2100 DC Climate Change, 1,000,000 people survived. "

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External links:

Hannah Marshall http://www.hannahmarshall.com/

Unique www.topshop.com

Fashion East http://www.fashioneast.co.uk/

Vivienne Westwood http://www.viviennewestwood.com/flash.php


Nicola Machetti
 
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